The Canon EOS 20D* [*I don't really have much to say about it as I only borrowed one for a few photos.] feels lovely, the screen on the back is large (although I still used the view-finder) and the controls are easy to use. To get great results I expect I'd have to get a lot more used to the camera, but I think that's the same with most of them.
The one thing it didn't have which I found surprising was an orientation sensor. You have to rotate the images yourself after you download them, which brings me on to another oddity. You need to install Canon's drivers on any machine you want to download to. This may not always be convenient.
All in all, having used one I really want my own now. Must start saving up…